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In Search of El Duende

Posts tagged: Tinto Wine

Spring 2021 Letter

To say something is “drinkable” often sounds as if one is saying that it is barely palatable. Instead, winemakers and critics often favor adjectives like nuanced, complex, subtle, sublime, layered, deep, unique, etc. And there is nothing inherently wrong with these adjectives. The problem is that they oftenreflect a preference for the esoteric over the ordinary. The goal is to exclude, to shroud wine behind an impenetrable mystery. This is what drove the “new world” towards obscenely cloying Chardonnays and mind-numbing Cabernets. It turns the limelight onto the product and the producer and forgets their fundamental purpose: to give, to please, to serve, to quench. Many, of course, never fell for the fad. And either way, the experiment has run its course and the best winemakers of the new world are moving back towards more balanced wines